Extreme 3D (non‑Pro) + Windows 11 + MSFS: “clean slate” checklist (no BIOS rabbit holes)
Most of the time with older Logitech sticks on Win11, the issue isn’t MSFS “support” so much as Windows ending up with messy/duplicate HID entries, or MSFS holding onto a broken/blank control profile. The goal is to prove the stick works at the Windows level first, then force MSFS to build a fresh mapping.
1) Confirm Windows sees it as a working game controller
- Unplug the joystick.
- Plug it directly into a rear motherboard USB port (no hub/front panel for the first test).
- Open the old Game Controllers panel: search Windows for Set up USB game controllers.
- Select the Logitech device (or “USB Game Controller”) -> Properties.
- On the Test tab, verify:
- X/Y move smoothly
- Twist (rudder) moves smoothly
- Throttle slider moves smoothly
- Buttons light up when pressed
If it’s not clean here, MSFS can’t fix it. If it IS clean here, keep going.
2) Remove ghost/duplicate device entries (this fixes a lot of “dead in MSFS” reports)
After “driver hacks,” Windows often accumulates hidden copies of the same controller.
- Unplug the joystick.
- Open Device Manager.
- In View, enable Show hidden devices.
- Expand these sections and uninstall any greyed-out/duplicate entries that look like they belong to the stick:
- Human Interface Devices
- Sound, video and game controllers
- Universal Serial Bus controllers
- Reboot.
- Plug the stick back into the same USB port and let Windows detect it again.
3) Calibrate in Windows (don’t skip this step)
Even when it “shows up,” bad calibration can make MSFS look like it’s ignoring input.
- Back to Set up USB game controllers -> select the stick -> Properties.
- If there’s a Settings tab with Calibrate, run the wizard fully.
- Re-check movement on the Test tab afterward.
4) Force MSFS to create a fresh control profile
MSFS can latch onto a weird/empty mapping and never recover unless you create a new profile.
- Start MSFS.
- Go to Options -> Controls Options.
- At the top, click your joystick device (make sure you’re not still on Keyboard/Mouse).
- Set the filter to All so you can see everything MSFS thinks the device can do.
- Create a New Profile for the stick (don’t keep fighting a broken default profile).
- Bind only the basics first:
- Ailerons Axis
- Elevator Axis
- Rudder Axis (twist)
- Throttle Axis (slider)
- Apply & Save, then test in a simple default aircraft on the runway.
5) If the axes are backwards / jumpy
- In each axis binding in MSFS, use the axis Reverse option if needed.
- For testing, set dead zones small (or zero) just to confirm you get consistent movement, then fine-tune later.
6) Quick sanity check if Windows sees it but MSFS doesn’t
- Temporarily unplug/disable other controllers (Xbox pad, wheel, HOTAS, etc.).
- Restart MSFS and check Controls Options again.
A few targeted questions (so we don’t guess)
- In Set up USB game controllers -> Properties, do you get clean axis movement and button presses, yes/no?
- In MSFS Controls Options, does the joystick appear as a device at the top at all, or is it missing entirely?
- When you say “Windows 10 drivers installed,” what exactly did you install (name/version), or did you let Windows install it automatically?
- Are you connected through a hub/front panel, or directly into the PC?
Answer those four and it’ll be pretty clear whether you’re dealing with (a) Windows/HID enumeration, or (b) MSFS profile/mapping getting stuck.